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Peak Mountain 3

Far Right Face

FA TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Lots of interesting moves.

directions

: Start at small alcove about 10 ft left from the edge of the wall.

Aim roughly straight up toward the mid-way anchor for the route "Right Edge" (which is the 5th intermediate bolt of that route). About two-thirds of the way up, the rock above gets more difficult, so find the best place to go diagonal left about 5-7 ft (crux), then aim up toward a bit left of the top anchor for

the route "Right Edge"

.

Variation: Start on the face right of gully and left of small alcove -- slopy holds, perhaps around 5.8.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Small alcove slightly right from below the top anchor for

the route "Right Edge"

, about 10 ft left from the edge of the continuous rock of the wall.

See W on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, with ramshorn lower-off.

. . . (for more details,

see Protection on the description page for the route "Right Edge"

).

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Top-Roping: Top anchor could be reached by leading the route "Obelix" or the route "Right Edge".

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.