- Edit (TBD)
Description
Variety of fun interesting moves all the way, sustained in difficulty.
. . (formerly called "Central - Right Corner").
Connects well to a higher two-pitch climb in sector 8 Moynier.
Up to the top of the right-facing corner. Next up through the left side of two small roofs (or up whitish dagger then step left 5 ft). Finish up left side of small whitish buttress to its top 12 feet right of the obvious standing dead tree.
. . Variation (easier): Instead finish left of the whitish buttress toward the top anchor for the route "Central - Right Overlap" or to the standing dead tree.
warning
: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
Under the big standing dead tree at the top of this low cliff, there are two right-facing corners about 25 feet apart along the base of this cliff. This route starts on the Right one of those two corners.
see on this Photo
Protection
9 bolts to anchor with "rams horn" lower-off.
Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, and a "rams horn" ("pig tail") lower-off piece, which is connected to the lower bolt hanger by a small shackle (which has claimed strength of 38 kN / 8500 lb).
. . (Bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch.
. . . the ramshorn + shackle are 316 Stainless steel.
. . . Lower hanger + chain + quick-links are plated steel - installed in 2017).
There are also facultative anchors and bolts above this anchor which could be used to help protect and/or aid reaching anchors for this or other nearby routes from above. Or to help make the transition to a higher pitch on sector 8 Moynier - [
for more details see the sector 7 Lewis description page
].
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Top-Roping
: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see
Description page for this Lewis sector
.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Routes in 7-Lewis
- 14Obelix5.4Sport · Tr