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Peak Mountain 3

Short Order

FA Ed Webster 81'
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A really nice route that sees little traffic for its quality and grade. Mixed protection and a variety of techniques will show you a good time. Route finding is an issue for many on the crux pitch, but protection is good.

Pitch 1: (5.7) Start by making a strange, mantel move to gain a bolt(an old rusty one if memory serves. Climb slabby moves up to a old fixed pin, belay here from the pin and gear (small cams) behind flakes.

Pitch 2: (5.9) Climb up right to a pin and continue on flakes to a bolt. Head up and right on thin holds to another bolt. Make a long move left to a rail (sloper), stand up and clip the last of your bolts. Climb a killer, right-facing flake to the top. Belay from a tree at the top.

Rap down with 2 ropes.

Location

This could be considered the far, right end of the Slabs Area or the far right of the Echo Roof area. At any rate, it is just left of the dirty gully that separates the slabs from the South Buttress.

It follows the very blunt corner for the most part.

Protection

A standard selection of trad gear bolts and pins protect. Belay from gear on pitch 1 and a tree on pitch 2. Rap with 2 ropes.