- Edit (TBD)
Description
Surprised no one added this, it's a challenging, mostly bolted slab/face climb that breaks through the proud headwall to the right of Echo Roof. The book describes 2 short pitches but you could probably run it as 1 long pitch if you’re solid in the grade. Start by scrambling up the tree gully to the base of Sleeping Beauty 10c, step left to a ledge and find a spot to belay.Pitch 1: Climb up friction slab past 2 bolts, making delicate smears up to the flake above. Climb the flake to the headwall above, then step left to the 3 bolt crux sequence. Make thoughtful and challenging moves to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 60'Pitch 2: Short pitch but it's nice to have communication with your belayer if you’re not solid on 11a face climbing. From the ledge, step right and follow a line of 3 bolts up the the Sleeping Beauty belay. Can be heady. Rap from sleeping beauty.
Location
Starts on the same ledge as sleeping beauty, look for the bolted line to the left of Sleeping Beauty's start corner.
Protection
Mostly draws with a few small cams and nuts.
Routes in 6. Echo Roof
- 25Wizard Of Oz5.11cTrad