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Peak Mountain 3

Future Shock

FA FFA Alain Comeau, Steve Larson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Balance your way up the dike as you will your feet to stick. Hand holds are almost non-existent, and foot work is technical and fun. The bolts are not "sport climb" close, but skidding down the wall isn't dangerous so long as you wear pants. As far as aesthetic lines go, they don't get prettier than this.

Pitch 1: Follow the dike described above. You will encounter a slippery crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts. After the crux it eases up slightly, but don't let your guard down. One more quite hard move gains a good edge below the anchor, mantle and take a deep breath.

Pitch 2: Rarely done. Step left from the belay to a solution pocket. Aid past 3 bolts, mantle on the ledge, and belay from a tree on the right.

Location

Between Ethereal Buttress (Ethereal Crack, 5.10d) and Echo Roof. You can't miss it.

Protection

Quickdraws for first pitch. May need gear for second pitch. Two rope rap from ledge.