East Lichen

I climbed this accidentally looking for

Creature Features

or

You Left Your Nuts

. It is the first line that looks like it goes on the left when you scramble around to the East face (not the hallway between the East and West Face). I am guessing I didn't get the FA, but it was very strange that at the crux lichen covered section at the top, there was about half an inch of untouched lichen covering perfect hand jams that I had to garden. I have never seen that at the Voo before!

This route has a fun, left-angling hand crack at the start with decent smearing with your left foot, other than the pebbles pouring down that my belayer later told me about. Then do an easy face move to get to a short hand/fist crack. That takes you to the crux lichen. I got a #1 above the lichen in the good hand crack in a spot with no lichen, then once you work your feet up, I got a great #6. Work your feet around to the right on some stemming ledges with frighteningly slippery ball bearing scree on top, and work your way around the chockstone to the right. Then, jump over the little gap, and I finished with an optional easy squeeze chimney that positively flared upwards.

Based on the abundant lichen, I conclude that this route is not on MP yet, let me know if I missed it.

Walk around to the East past the hallway, and scramble up to the Lower Tier on the East Face. This is about 100 feet to the left of

Creature Features

, and on the tier lower. You can actually do

Creature Features

as a second pitch to this, or scramble off right to the base (or top out and rap down the West side, and walk back).

I took through a #6, and was glad to have the #6 on the lichen crux!