- Edit (TBD)
Description
Fall of the Golden Boy shares the first 15 feet of slabby climbing with its neighbor
Two Skinny Js
. Fall of the Golden Boy splits off to the right in an overhanging hand and finger crack in a left-facing dihedral. After 20 feet, it then rejoins
Two Skinny Js
for easy face climbing to hands and offwidth in a flared, right-facing dihedral.
This route is named for a massive whipper that Shane caught on Dillingham Blues in Fremont Canyon. His friend the "Golden Boy" whipped huge, ripped out all his gear, factored two on the anchor and hit the water.
Location
Fall of the Golden follows a crack system on the far right side of the southeast face of Blair 1. To the left of it is
Two Skinny J's
,
Crack of the Dudac
, and
Crack of the Dudac Direct
(in that order). A bit further to the left is located
Another Cryptorchid
,
You Left Your Nuts
, Scrotum, and East Face Direct (in that order, these climbs are all listed in the Robert Kelman guidebook). Fall of the Golden Boy is the last continuous good looking crack system on the right side of the wall.
Build an anchor. Walk off.
Protection
Single set of cams from 00 Metolius up to #5 Camalot, with doubles in hands and fingers. 1 Standard set of stoppers. 3-5 single length runners.
Routes in Lower Blair I
- 25Fall of the Golden Boy5.8Trad