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Peak Mountain 3

Fall of the Golden Boy

FA Julian Poush, Shane Miller, Fall 2008
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fall of the Golden Boy shares the first 15 feet of slabby climbing with its neighbor

Two Skinny Js

. Fall of the Golden Boy splits off to the right in an overhanging hand and finger crack in a left-facing dihedral. After 20 feet, it then rejoins

Two Skinny Js

for easy face climbing to hands and offwidth in a flared, right-facing dihedral.

This route is named for a massive whipper that Shane caught on Dillingham Blues in Fremont Canyon. His friend the "Golden Boy" whipped huge, ripped out all his gear, factored two on the anchor and hit the water.

Location

Fall of the Golden follows a crack system on the far right side of the southeast face of Blair 1. To the left of it is

Two Skinny J's

,

Crack of the Dudac

, and

Crack of the Dudac Direct

(in that order). A bit further to the left is located

Another Cryptorchid

,

You Left Your Nuts

, Scrotum, and East Face Direct (in that order, these climbs are all listed in the Robert Kelman guidebook). Fall of the Golden Boy is the last continuous good looking crack system on the right side of the wall.

Build an anchor. Walk off.

Protection

Single set of cams from 00 Metolius up to #5 Camalot, with doubles in hands and fingers. 1 Standard set of stoppers. 3-5 single length runners.