- Edit (TBD)
Description
Face climbing and pinching on crystals between horizontal cracks. Top out on a vertical crack. Moves tend to be delicate and awkward with good rests in between on the horizontals. The crux comes early on so pre-clipping the first bolt from the boulder is not a bad idea.
The route gets its name because we were climbing the day before Jeff's wedding. After getting beat up by some harder routes, we went to climb
Le Petit Arbre
. Upon rappelling I decided to give the line a try on TR. It proved excellent and appeared unclimbed (Skip Harper Webpage, Fat Crack Country Book), so Shane came to join us for the lead. Quite a memorable bachelor party.
Location
This is just left of
Le Petit Arbre
on Lower Blair I. Look for the 2 bolts to crack finish. Can walk off the ledge, rap off the ledge, or better yet continue up
Nick's Loose Flake Variation
and rap all the way to the ground from that anchor with a 60 meter rope.
Protection
Gear to 2" and 2 quickdraws for the 2 bolts. Gear anchor. 0.5" pieces work well on this route.
Routes in Lower Blair I
- 11Bachelor Party5.10aTrad