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Dod's Jam + Dastardly Crack Linkup
Description
Usually begun with
Free For All
, this link-up of classic (mostly) hand cracks takes a direct line up the South Face, ending at the hiker's trail for an easy descent.
Dod's Jam
(5.10b): Lieback & stem your way up an off-width corner that's actually quite fun, not awkward. From the top of the corner, monkey past a tree with some slings, then tackle an exquisite thin hands crack (.10b) splitting a steep, exposed face below the spacious Big Ledge.
Dastardly Crack
(5.9): Step left from Big Ledge into a deep right-facing corner. It's classic hands and stemming pretty much the whole way to the top, with the crux coming where the crack bulges about halfway up. Finish on a nice ledge with rap hangers. Rappel from here with two ropes or a single 70m, or...
Get ready for some adventure. Climb more or less straight up from the belay, then wander left up steps and into a corner system that ends right next to a switchback on the hiker's trail. This pitch is brushy, mossy, and dirty in places, but it's kinda fun in a perverse alpine sort of way.
Location
Toward the far left end of the South Face, past the Third Tunnel. Free For All starts up a small detached pillar just right of Free for Some and Windsurfer.
Protection
Gear to 4", doubles from 0.75-4". Nothing tiny needed.
Routes in South Face
- 9Dod's Jam + Dastardly Crack Linkup5.10cTrad