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Peak Mountain 3

Reasonable Richard

FA 1989 - Tim Olson, Neal Olsen, Jim Davis
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

In recent years Reasonable Richard has been known for its thick carpet of moss, abundant blackberry canes and shrubs, and non-existent pro. In September 2016 it received a cleaning which exposed cracks for slotting gear and a couple of fixed pins. It’s now quite reasonable and provides fun access to some classic 5.10 routes above.

Reasonable Richard starts approx. 40’ east of the third tunnel. It follows left-trending low-angled slabs to a vertical shallow dihedral ending below Blood Sweat and Smears, Flying Circus, and Flying Swallow.

Follow the low angle slabs (4th and easy 5th class) past a fixed pin and then look for cracks and pods for cams and nuts. After 25 meters, the route transitions to vertical at a shallow right facing corner. At the vertical section, look for a fixed angle pin which can be backed up with a cam, then a 3/8 bolt, followed by discontinuous cracks and pods that accept stoppers and cams up to 1.5 inches. The RR anchor consists of 2 recent good bolts with Metolius rap hangers and a collection of old bolts from an earlier era. Return to the trail with a 35 meter rappel on a single 70m rope, or 60m rope and some easy down climbing.

Location

Starts approx. 40’ east of the third tunnel.

Protection

Cams and nuts to 1.5 inches. The cracks on Reasonable Richard are discontinuous and open for protection every couple of meters. You’ll need to be alert for gear placements and use them when they appear. The pro in the beta photos are a mix of cams, TCUs, and nuts.


Routes in South Face


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    Reasonable Richard
    5.9
    Trad