- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start next to the third tunnel and move up possibly dirty rock with some awkward stemming, searching movement. Make for the series of hand cracks up and left. Climb up to and past a series of small ledges until you can sink your hands into some quality fissures. This section involves a healthy bit of exposure, fun straight-in jamming, with regular jugs and nearby cracks for alternate hand and gear placements. Clip a couple ancient pitons for kicks. You will eventually merge with
Free For All
at a small ledge after a semi-crux, then make a final strenuous move to another ledge where you will have a wonderful opportunity to get intimate with your partner. Rap with a single 70m to the ground, or two ropes, or do a second rap from the mid-anchor of
Free For Some
without a stance (not recommended).
Location
Left side of the South Face, count the tunnels, you want the third one
Protection
Gear to 4", doubles from 2-4 are nice but can be substituted for small gear and/or fixed pitons
Routes in South Face
- 12Dod's Jam P15.7Trad