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Peak Mountain 3

Outlander

FA Malcolm Daly?
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Outlander is a fantastic, steep 2-pitch route at the top of the Book, with varied climbing. Start with any of the 3 to 4 pitch routes that lead up to the Cave area. Most people do Cheap Date and then the final pitch of Outlander, but P1 of Outlander is comparable in quality to Cheap Date.

It is most expedient to belay on a ramp down and left from the Cave in a little alcove, with some blocks and loose flakes.

P1 - climb up into the prominent left-trending arch (the significant dihedral left of the Cave) above the ramp/alcove, using a short, funky 5.9 crack. Follow the arch, interesting 5.9, to a little alcove beneath a beautiful finger crack which rises out of a small roof. Climb that (sustained 5.10b) and belay on a low-angle slab.

P2 (5.10c) - go easily up the slab and mantle onto a platform beneath the final steep headwall. Hand traverse left into a pod (3.5 Friend helpful in the pod, to free up a good jam), rest, and finish up with thin hands and then fingers to the top of the Book.

Descend by scrambling down grooves, 4th class, to join the normal descent from the Cave area or take the long walk-off as described.

Protection

Standard rack; #3.5 Friend helpful on P2. Lots of small stuff for P1.