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Peak Mountain 3

The Box

FA description Chip Salaun, late 1970s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This excellent summit pitch starts from Fang Ledge, just right of the the

George's Tree

belay. Lieback a thin, right-facing corner (5.8/9) right off of Fang Ledge, and head easily to a huge recess

i.e.

: The Box. Do the thin crack/dihedral that shoots out the left wall of The Box (5.9) to lower angle grooves. Decent climbing tends leftward where a belay can be made below the fine, left-facing corner that finishes

George's Tree

. One could reach the summit with 1 long pitch if rope drag was not a factor.

Added note: D. Snively,

et al.

did an undescribed variation to this pitch, a.k.a.: Swing State, which takes the very back, left corner of The Box, a vertical, strenous, right-facing corner that eventually blends back to the initial line, 5.10+.

Protection

A standard rack.