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Peak Mountain 3

Fat City Crack

FA Ray Jardine
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is one of the best routes at Lumpy Ridge, and the Fat City-

Cheap Date

link-up is among the best 5.10 outings in Colorado. Take the trail to the Book, and just before you reach the rock, take the left branch. Fat City starts just left of the giant, landmark

Howling at the Wind dihedral

. You're aiming for the apex of the long roof band left of the dihedral.

P1. Climb a left-leaning crack that starts as a seam a few feet left of the giant corner, but turns into a finger & hand crack (not to be confused with the first pitch of Perelandra, a left-leaning crack that remains thin). Belay at bolts after ~105 feet (you can just barely get down from here with a 60 meter rope).

P2. Continue up the crack, which turns into 5.10a seam (micro gear), hand traverse left to a slot, climb that (good bolt and/or #3 Camalot), and grovel over the awkward roof where a good crack passes through the apex (crux). Belay at a stance just above.

P3. Lieback up the right-leaning system, stepping right when things appear harder than 5.9. Get to the "

Cave

", the standard exit for climbs on the right side of The Book.

P4. Do that (5.8) or, better, finish with

Cheap Date

and

Outlander

for a fantastic, sustained 5.10 climb.

Protection

A standard rack to a #3.5 Friend; micro-nuts are handy for the P2 seam.