- Edit (TBD)
Description
In July of 2021, Travis Heidepriem and I set out to put up a new free route on this buttress. Unfortunately, due to some sections of bad rock, that didn’t happen, so we ended up with an okay aid route. This is a shame because much of this formation has unique (and steep!) rock features and some rad neon-yellow lichen. The formation also places the climber at some beautifully exposed positions with great views of the valley and the spires.
The aid climbing is engaging and at least one pitch (pitch 3?) was almost entirely climbed on beaks and knifeblades, with enough bomber placements to keep it A2’ish.
All the belays are bolted and we placed a few 1/4" bolts and bathook holes throughout the route to avoid bad rock or to bypass short blank sections.
At the top of the 4th pitch, aim for the inside of the giant right facing corner. The fifth pitch connects into the last pitch of Book of Job via a bolt and a traverse to the climbers-right (into the chasm). Climb easy 5th to the top.
If anyone actually wants to climb this, send me a message and I can provide more information.
Location
Starts at the toe of the buttress, near the arete, between Perfect Vision and Book of Job. There is a tree which may be used to get established on the rock. From the tree, free climb 5.9 and look for a bolt. From the bolt, head up and right to the obvious crack system.
The route may be rappelled from anywhere, but two ropes are necessary. Due to the overhanging nature of the route, some anchors may be difficult to access.
Protection
double rack from tiny to #3, nuts, 4x each beaks sm, md, lg, 3x each knifeblades sm, md, 1x each assorted hooks, including 2x bathooks,1x each smallest lost arrows and angles. No rivets.
Routes in 5. Higher Cathedral Rock
- 9Sound and Vision5.9Trad · Aid