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Peak Mountain 3

Mary's Tears

FA Bill Price & Mike Borris, May 1980
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

It is great route, all 4 pitches long and interesting , and p2, p3 are classic and very sustain. Route has good ASCA bolts at each belay. Rappel route with two 60m ropes, or continue up NEB of HC, or Crucifix .

P1: has 3 variations : 11b on the left ( did not tried) , 10c in the middle - felt hard for the grade and difficult to protect well ( did on tr), and 5.8 left variation which is good crack, mostly hands. Belay at the bolts 130 ft.

P2. Nice clean left facing corner. Good climbing with some lay-backing bring you to the end of the pitch with tricky face move. As soon as you figure it out it is 10b. Belay at two bolts ancor at the base of huge left facing corner. long pitch ~150-160 ft.

P3. Continue corner up , great varied climbing . Pitch was dry and clean ( when topo show 10a wet and dirt) Spread hands size gear wisely for this pitch. The crux is turning the lip of overhanging wide hands crack in the corner and than thin hands in the corner- 11a, but felt like 10+, ~160 feet, two bolts belay.

P4. Has two variations. Right variation follow main left facing corner and has a difficult but well protected face move 11a (kind of mantel/high step on tiny ledges)

Looks like you can avoid hard section climbing 20 feet left from the corner in the groove (probably at 5.9? - did not tried) .

Both variations meet at route is finishing in the easy chimney to two bolts in the base of Crucifix . 150 feet

Location

Route started 30 feet left from NE Buttress, same approach .

Protection

It easy to link NE Buttress of Hire Cathedral with Meary's Tears, since rack is the same:

double from blue Alien to #2 Camalot + single #3, #4 Camalots and #4Friend.

I would add for Mary's Tears third #2 Cam and micro-nuts if you want to do 10c first pitch variation