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Peak Mountain 3

Power Point

FA FFA Werner Braun, Scott Cosgrove
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb the NEB up to pitch 4 and split off to the right to start the route.

P1 go up a dirty and kinda loose chimney, 5.9. Take that up to the large vegetated ledge. From here you will be below the 5.11 OW corner.

P2. This OW protects well with a couple hand size pieces, double 4s one 5 and one 6. The crux of the pitch has a bolt. The anchor is one good bolt and a 3” or 4” piece.

P3 is the crux, starting with steep splitter hand cracks. Then you get up to a bolt (bomber) and the second bolt (old but OK) and get into the business. Very steep, very safe. Do some big moves to get around the arete. Climb up a crack and build an anchor.

P4 (psychological crux) start up the steep splitter until the crack ends. Place some bomber gear ( black totem and small nuts) and use the positive face holds to the right and then traverse left on BIG holds (5.10-). Come around the corner and you merge into the crucifix. Climb the ear 11d (save a .2 and a #1!) and build an anchor, we stopped where there is a triangle pod. Anchor takes finger size pieces and a #3.

P5, climb chimney and cracks (5.10 fingers) to the top. Great burly route.

Location

Obvious split off of the NEB. From the traverse go up and right.

Protection

Nuts, including small, and cams doubles in .2-#4. One .1 and one 5+6.