Hammerbruch

Interesting moves all the way, in a variety of rock situations.

Could continue on from the top to additional pitches by connecting to the bottom of the route "NorthEast ridge Right side" on sector 8 Moynier.

Diagonal up left to reach bottom of flake. Up the flake to stand on its top. Up face trending right to stay away from crack. Reach a ledge with 2-ft-wide block at its left end (with left-trending vague ridge above left). Up the block and left across the crack. Finish up left-trending vague ridge.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Bottom of short half-diamond slab below right from obvious left-facing flake which is below right from rock tongue.

see on this Photo

5 bolts for sport Leading.

Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, and a "rams horn" ("pig tail") lower-off piece, which is connected to a quicklink on the lower bolt hanger by a small shackle (which has claimed strength of 38 kN / 8500 lb).

. . (Bolts + hangers are all 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch.

. . . the ramshorn and shackle are 316 Stainless.

. . . Chain and quick-links are plated steel - installed in 2017).

Top-Roping: Currently in 2017 there is a static line attached to a tree on top of the cliff which could be used for protection and/or aid in reaching the top anchor from this route from the top anchor of another route.

. . (further info -

See the Secor area page

).

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.