- Edit (TBD)
Description
Interesting thoughtful moves, first with hands using crack, then less-positive holds on face.
Up along right side of tongue, and follow right-trending crack a bit higher. When feet are just above top of the obvious left-facing flake to right, step left onto face.
. . (Variation: Continue to top of right-trending crack - 5.4).
Up the face trending left (parallel to right crack, but not using the crack) - (and not using holds from the easier route just left). Then straight to top.
warning
: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it
and
supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
Location
Right side of tongue which forms left side of lower right crack. A bit left from obvious low left-facing flake.
see on this Photo
Protection
The 2-bolt anchor for the route Hammerbruch is above this climb -- for details of configuration and hardware composition of this anchor,
see Description page of that Hammerbruch route
.
No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2017.
Top-Roping: Currently in 2017 there is a static line attached to a tree on top of the cliff.
For ideas how to get access to top of the cliff to set up top anchor for Top-Roping,
see the description page for sector Secor
.
note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset for the anchors near the top iot this climb -- so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.
In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.
Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.