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Peak Mountain 3

Visit to the Gunks

FA TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

One positive horizontal to another on the upper face (like many sections of the largest Trapps sector in the Gunks climbing area in New York). After non-positive slab climbing on lower apron.

Up the right side of the low apron to get on the lower-extending right side of the steeper face. Finish roughly straight, staying left of the center crack.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it

and

supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "silly" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Below upper face between the left high wide crack and the center thinner crack. On the right side of the low less-steep apron. Below left from the tongue which forms left side of lower right crack.

see E on this Photo

. . . .

or E on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is 2-bolts-connected-with chain, with two carabiners.

. . (All bolts + upper hangers are 304 Stainless steel, 3/8 inch, but lower hanger, carabiners, chain, and quick-links are plated steel - installed in 2017.

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2017.

Above left from the anchor are some facultative bolts, which could be used to help protect reaching this route's anchor from above, or for making the transition to a another higher pitch in sector 8 Moynier - [

for details see Secor sector description

].

Top-Roping: Currently in 2017 there is a static line attached to a tree on top of the cliff.

Likely want a directional to use it with this route.

For ideas how to get access to top of the cliff to set up top anchor for Top-Roping,

see the description page for sector Secor

.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Protection for trad Leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


2000 km
1000 mi