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Peak Mountain 3

Big - T

FA Lance Hadfield, Ian McMillan, Lee Brinckerhoff and Marc Beverly: 8/2005
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1) Some key bolts (6) with great gear opportunities in between lead to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2) Starts with bolted face climbing followed by great climbing through a series of small roofs and ledges leading to another 2-bolt anchor and the money headwall pitch of the climb.

P3) The crux pitch. The first bolt is right off the belay. Clip it, pull on a flake, and make a few moves to clip the next bolt. Balancy moves that force good posture take you through incredible face climbing to a thin crack, some more easy face climbing, and to a nice belay ledge.

P4) Essentially a lower 5th class scramble to the top.

Location

30 yards north of Bush Shark Spire proper. Look for a bolt 10 feet off the ground near a large boulder

Protection

Small to medium trad rack, several draws as there are a number of bolts supplementing p1-p3. Use caution if rappelling the route with a 60m rope, the rap down to the p1 belay station is definitely a rope stretcher.

[ADMIN NOTE: I found that the following rack was sufficient for this climb: Camalots, single set: #00 to #1 C3, and 0.3 to #1; Nuts; 11 draws/slings.]