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Peak Mountain 3

Banana Split

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Description

This route only has a single-sentence writeup in 'Mike's Big Book of Sandia Misadventures.' To wit: "This pitch goes up from the top of Bush Shark Spire to the left of Garden Party" (pp. 176-177). Well, that's maybe all it warrants. Clamber up the deep, brushy, mildly loose gully until a bulge forces you left. Escape up the left gully wall (5.9, watch that loose flake) and belay out on the arete; about 100 feet up from the col there's a couple of decent ledges. Then follow the rest of the ramp up to the top of the ridge (a few 5.8 spots). If nothing else, this route allows you to avoid the walk of shame back out of Echo Canyon.

Location

From the top of P2 on Bush Shark spire, drop east down to the col between the spire and main wall, and start traversing right/south. This route is apparently Hill's "wide chimney system" that you pass by on the way to the start of Garden Party; it's just a few steps from the col. It will take you back to your packs at the top.

Protection

Whatever you hauled up Bush Shark spire will work.