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Description
Head up past the first 2 bolts on the second pitch of Big "T". Continue straight up past another bolt, then move left over some loose rock into a left facing corner (gear). Continue up the corner reaching back right around the arete to clip a bolt. Work up the corner past some hollow flakes and onto the arete. Make tenuous moves around the arete and back onto the face (crux #1). Continue traversing right to a hands off rest. Clip a bolt, then work up into an undercling from where you can clip the 7th bolt. Make a big span up to some edges then tick tack your way right along a serise of edges ending in a difficult move to a 2 finger pocket (crux #2). Rest up and clip the 8th bolt then make tricky, reachy and scrunchy moves up and right to the last bolt then move up and back left to the arete where the climbing eases and a piece or two of gear takes you to the anchors shared with Big "T".
Location
A variation to the second pitch of Big "T". Climb the first pitch of Big "T" or make the first 3 raps in to the ledge at the top of the first pitch. To get off either make 2 raps with a 70m rope or climb the 3rd and 4th pitches of Big "T" to the top of the wall.
Protection
9 bolts and some small to medium gear (fingers and thin hands) to a bolted anchor.
Routes in Bush Shark Area
- 1Curfew5.12+Sport · Trad