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Peak Mountain 3

Cole Essence

FA Charles Cole & Randall Grandstaff -
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Cole Essence takes the aesthetic hanging dihedral just right of Triassic Sands and just left of the Archaeopteryx arete. It is a left-facing, tiger-striped corner with no apparent gear. There is gear, but be willing to do crux climbing above it.

Begin by doing a short pitch up to a big ledge. Take the first pitch of Triassic (5.7), or take cracks on the face just right. From an optional belay on this ledge (best done as one pitch if you can solo or backclean the start), launch up the corner past a few good stances and good gear placements to a cruxy section of gaston palm-smearing on a weird rib of rock on the left wall. If all goes well you'll end up in a chimney position, back to the corner, with a no-hands rest. Continue upwards as high into the corner as possible then swing out and around the arete to clip an anchor, recently upgraded by the ASCA. With a 70m you can lower off all the way to the ground.

Protection

Gear to a #1 Camalot. Include small TCUs.