Amber

Amber is a great but little-known route. I got beta from someone who had been on it. i went out and climbed it, had a great time on it, and pass what I know on to you.

The first pitch is shared with Wholesome Fullback, so approach as for that route. The second pitch is classic, with sustained crack to face to layback/chimney moves, and is a four star pitch in my book. The upper two pitches are easier but more serious feeling than I had expected- the top pitch in particular, which turns an exciting roof on absolutely huge horns/jugs which may or may not break off one day, and then tops out on the furthest right tip of the Wholesome Fullback buttress, smack dab in the middle of Black Velvet. Views of the whole canyon, from Triassic to Epinephrine, make the summit a neat spot to hang out before rapping the route on double ropes.

I've made a topo and pitch by pitch beta, which I'll submit as a route photo, so that should clear up any other questions. And finally- perhaps someone who knows of the FA will chip in at some point and tell me what bogus info I'm unwittingly dishing out.

Anchors are good double bolts with rings. Face cruxes are protected with good bolts. Rack: tiny to big nuts, with emphasis on small/mediums. TCUs and aliens, cams to 1.5", doubles to 3", and a 3.5. Midsize tricams would go into huecos and might make the upper pitches a little more comfortable.