Geriatrics (aka Ben Dover Beelzebub)

Sustained, excellent technical climbing.

P1 (110', 5.12a): Climb a right-leaning seam with small pro. Clip the first of many bolts as you work up a steep slab to a traverse right and a belay on the arete. Really good climbing.

P2 (100', 5.12a): Difficult to grade this pitch: The crux felt like a V4 boulder problem that is not too bad once you figure it out; the remainder of the pitch is 11- tops. Immediately off the belay execute the intricate crux sequence and then follow sometimes friable/hollow rock straight up the face over two small roofs to an anchor in a scoop. A heady lead. Note: Belaying at the stance below the anchor can interfere with the climber during the crux. I advise either extending the belay well below the anchor until the crux is complete, or skipping the belay altogether by linking the first two pitches.

P3 (110', 5.11d): Follow bolts up the wall to a cruxy concavity. Above move left to a rest and then back right under a roof. Pass the roof on the right (#4 Camalot placement) and continue up more easily to an anchor which is oddly positioned far to the left. A great pitch.

Rap the route with a single 70.

Begin at the right edge of the wall at the entrance to the gully leading up to Only the Good Die Young.

1x 00 C3 to 0.75 Camalot, wires, RP's, and a #4 Camalot. 12 or more draws.