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Peak Mountain 3

Left Face Right Edge Plus

FA unknown
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Description

Interesting moves in a variety of situations, first easy up face, next steeper up + traversing (sustained delicate footwork with thoughtful handholds) - finish up less-difficult ridge in middle of gully (or stemming the gully).

. . . (arete section could be reached more easily by first climbing lower part of the route Central Gully)

Start up Right side of lower Left face to reach steeper rock. Diagonal up right around edge of steep section.

. . . Variation 1 (top-rope): Just stop after the 5.4-5.5 climbing and lower off when reach steep.

. . . Variation 2: Up over Left side of steep section (similar difficulty, but ends sooner).

Get hands on big horizonatal, next traverse horizontal right into gully - (perhaps a bit downward?) - to reach bottom of non-tall arete / narrow ridge in middle of gully.  Up the ridge to top of gully.

. . . When making the traverse into the gully then up the non-tall ridge, this route follows the light-blue bolts. The gray-metallic bolts are for the route "Central Gully". Except there is one light-blue out far right higher up which is for "Central Gully" (but should not cause any confusion); and the light-blue bolt just below the top anchor is mainly for "Central Gully" - (though some leaders of this route might want to clip it anyway).

. . .  (Variation Mid-Route: Instead of following the non-tall arete, step right across ridge into main gully, to join the route "Central Gully").

Finish to bolts-with-ramshorn-lower-off anchor on knob above right from top of gully.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Photo with route lines to be added - (but not until August 2019).

Protection

10 intermediate Lead-protection to bolts-with-ring anchor.

. . . Bolt studs are 80mm x 10mm wedge bolts, 316 Stainless steel.

. . . Hangers are 304 Stainless steel.

. . . All installed 2019.

. . . Anchor details see

the route Central Gully

.

Top-Rope: For ideas on how to set up Top-Roping - - >

See the Erb sector area page

.