Central Gully

Interesting stemming + palming. Starts easy, then gets progressively trickier toward the top.

Up the left-trending (loose) (dirty) gully between the two lower faces. Higher up where it gully splits, bear Right.

. . Variation: Instead climb the little arete up the center of the gully (see the route "Left Face Right Edge Plus").

Most of the main route stays to left of the lead-protection bolts to the right of the gully. And all the main route stays to the right of the ridge in the middle of the upper gully.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Photo with route lines to be added - (but not until August 2019).

7 or 8 intermediate Lead-protection bolts to bolts-with-ramshorn top anchor.

. . . Bolts and hangers all Stainless steel, bolts 80mm x 10mm wedge bolts -- installed 2019.

The locations of most of these intermediate bolts has been designed to reduce impact hitting structures in the gully in case of a leader falling --

not

to indicate where the best climbing goes -- so generally it works better to climb to the left of the line of bolts.

Top anchor is two 80mmx10mm wedge bolts with hangers (Stainless steel) connected by 3-link and 5-link chains and three quick-links (Plated steel), with ramshorn (pigstail) rappel / lower-off fixture on the lowest quick-link -- installed 2019. Ramshorn and lower hanger are 316 Stainless steel.

Top-Rope: For ideas on how to set up Top-Roping - - >

See the Erb sector area page

.