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Peak Mountain 3

Far Left Scramble

FA unknown
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Description

Interesting face climbing -- in stages.

pitch 1

: Get to the bottom by going up left from base of sector 7 on herd path to below wide gully full of loose rocks. Start up the short slab just Left past the bottom of that loose gully. Diagonal up left above plants, then up to the left "summit". Walk across rather wide grassy ledge to right side of another slab. Up the right side where it's easy enough, then left up to big tree at top of slab as belay anchor.

. . . Variation P1 finish (harder like 5.5 or at least 5.4): Instead climb next slab near its center, directly up to big tree as anchor.

pitch 2

: Around behind big tree, straight up face just left of steeper Left Face routes of this sector. Next trend slightly left to tan rounded rock. Around its left side to finish at big dead gnarly tree as belay anchor.

descent

: Obvious strategy is to rappel.

At the top of pitch 2 is a loop of 9.8mm-diameter climbing rope with double-fisherman's / grapevine knot around big branch of big healthy pine tree -- with 1/4 inch bar-diameter Plated-steel Snap-link attached. Installed 2019.

At the top of pitch 1 is a loop of 9.8mm-diameter climbing rope with double-fisherman's / grapevine knot around the trunk of big gnarly dead tree -- with 1/4 inch bar-diameter Plated-steel Snap-link attached. Installed 2019.

. . (If not sure you trust either of those set-ups for your rappel, then for sure bring your own gear to supplement them).

top-roping

: Each pitch

could

be top-roped. But . . .

note

that while some parties might trust the single Snap-link on the loop of rope for holding a rappel rope in a static position which a climber is hanging in rappel from it, trusting a single Snap-link to hold a rope being moved and started and stopped in different directions is surely a greater level of risk. Therefore it is highly recommended to use your locking carabiner to hold the rope while belaying a climber attached to it.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Photo to be added.

Protection

No fixed hardware installed for anchor or intermediate lead protection as of 2019.

Protection for trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.