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Peak Mountain 3

West Pole Direct Finish

FA Joe Ebner, Dennis Grabnegger, and John Markwell (from Barnes, 2nd ed)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Left-facing finger crack arches into a sustained fist and off-width crack. Loose block about half-way up that would be a great hold. Move right onto a balancy position to avoid (the hands are good, just find them),then back into the crack. Even the topout is fun!

Location

From the West Pole belay/rappel rings look up at the crack and right facing corner. Or look 20 ft left from Conn's West rap tree.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack plus a few larger pieces (1-2 BD #4s) for the off-width sections. Takes good gear including hexes.

After your party is up, you can belay them over the top of the fin and down the scramble (4th class) or the direct down climb to thr summit notch.

Note: you can use the rap anchor at the base of the pitch to build a belay, but on busy days, please just look left to thr crack and the build an easy gear anchor to keep folks moving off the summit.


Routes in South Peak West Face (Main Area)


  1. 35
    West Pole Direct Finish
    5.8
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