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Peak Mountain 3

Casual In The Mind's Eye

FA Prothro & Doyle, late 1970s/Weinmann & Baumgartner OCT 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: Climb the small crack to a good hold where the crack ends below the headwall. Traverse left about 6-8 feet to another small, thin crack behind a small maple tree. Climb the thin crack (crux) using finger locks and jams to the intersection with West Pole Direct Finish at the small roof and much wider crack. Finish on WPDF. 50-55 ft.

While it is a short line, it is good, hard fun and very airy up there. It's a little licheny down low, but the upper crack is brilliant and clean...harder than it looks. Overall it's very much a great way to finish off West Pole.

Location

On the West Pole/Conn's West Ledge below the Summit Ledge.

Start at a finger-crack about 5 feet to the right of the two-bolt anchor atop P2 of West Pole or about 10 feet left of the West Pole/Conn's West rappel tree. The West Pole Direct Finish (WPDF) crack will be about 10-15 feet to the left of this spot.

To descend, scramble down the back side off the top and down to the Summit Ledge.

Protection

Take small cams down to #00 TCUs/Master Cams and small wires/micro nuts. A #4 BD Cam or equivalent is helpful for the brief wide section at the top of WPDF. You can sling one of the large blocks on the top of the formation for your belay anchor.


Routes in South Peak West Face (Main Area)


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    Casual In The Mind's Eye
    5.10a
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