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Peak Mountain 3

Spiritual Surgery

FA Derek Field (March 2019)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Layback past a bolt and head up the low-angle sub-tips section to a stance below the business. Climb the tips splitter past a cruxy exit into a section of wild face climbing protected by five bolts. Two-bolt chain anchor.

Location

Splitter tips crack in the middle of the upper wall. Climb the first pitch of Blood Money or American Hustle, then traverse the Party Ledge (with fixed handline) to the base of Spiritual Surgery.

Protection

The crack is very thin and it is important to get the size just right. The crux takes blue mastercams but neither 0.2 nor 0.3 camalots (unless you sacrifice fingerlock pods). Small nuts can be placed throughout the route. Below is a list of the cams that I placed on the redpoint ascent:Gear in order: 1x bolt, 1x 0.5 C4 camalot, 2x purple mastercams, 3x blue mastercams, 1x 0.75 C4 camalot, 1x orange mastercam, 5x bolts