Blood Money

Blood Money (5.10-, 190 feet, 2 pitches) The first pitch of this route is the best way to access the Party Ledge which is the starting point for the lines on the upper tier. The second pitch is the money!

Pitch 1 (5.9, 90'): Stem a short dirty fist crack to an awkward ledge flop. Meander up and right past a bolt into a groovy stembox. Step left onto the crimpy face and climb past four bolts to a two-bolt chain anchor on the Party Ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.10-, 100'): Climb a short hand crack just left of the belay, then walk to the back of the ledge and grunt up a strenuous flare (long-sleeved clothing strongly advised). Move right through a small alcove and launch up the juggy roof crack. Pick your own path up the final varnished slabs, ending at a two-bolt chain anchor.

Descent: Rappel the route with one 60m rope.

Park at Little Horse Trailhead, south of the Chapel on Highway-179. Start on Bell Rock Pathway, paralleling the highway for 5 minutes until turning left onto Little Horse Trail. Continue to the junction with the Llama Trail. Walk straight past the metal Llama Trail sign and head due east on a secondary trail. For clarification: if you are looking squarely at the metal Llama Trail sign and noon is straight over it, the desired trail is oriented about 10:00 to the sign. This is a very good trail that leads all the way up to the saddle between Crown Butte and Gibraltar Rock.

There is a good view of the Backside Crag from the saddle - Blood Money ascends the chimney on the lower right side. Cross to the east (backcountry) side of the ridge and contour north along the base of Dune Dome (the small crag just south of Crown Butte). Follow the climber's trail to the lower right side of the cliff and locate the starting gully.

Total time: 45-60 mins

Double set cams to 3" + one 4" cam one 60m rope