Wally’s Roof

Sometimes you climb a route just for its position. This route has position and climbs really well too. It’s also one of the oldest routes in the gorge. Safe easy aid climbing through the roof. I yanked out some old broken angles and cleaned out the placements for cams. There’s still a bong at the bottom of the aid pitch I forget to pull but it would be nice to get it out of there as it’s in a .75/1” crack. There’s a couple ancient rivets that I left but maybe they should be knocked off? You don’t use them or need them. I left him for history’s sake but they’d prob pop off with a light bounce. This is one of those routes people call C2 but it’s only C2 if the verticals blades stay put.... so it’s just easy A2 at best with fixed gear. I bounced them with everything I had trying to get them to pull and they stayed so they’re good for now. If repeating many years later than the date I posted this route you might want to bring a couple blades and a hammer. Pitches 1&2 climb either primitive paradox, bt express to primitive to go directly up Wings of Wallenda before traverse left on pitch 1 of PP. Although the anchors at the top of PP have a great ledge and are the better belay. Best to link these pitches for times sake. Pitch 3 climb the big crack and then aid out the mega steep roof. Super fun risk free climbing. After the roof there’s a ledge to the left where you can build an anchor. Probably best for whoever’s cleaning the route to just re-aid it to keep the rope from getting notched otherwise just tie the rope of below the roof Pitch 4 make a 5.6 move then 4th class to the top

Start on primitive paradox or bt express.

A double rack of cams to 2” with some nuts. I had a #3 as well. You could bring extra cams if you aren’t comfy leap frogging stuff but all the placements are really good.