We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Escaping Time

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1- 5.10 - Start up the 5.9 left facing roof corner that was often finished on slings around an eastern cedar on a ledge. Continue up past the cedar through an open corner face up to a ledge system with an anchor above and left. A green C3 or equivalent is needed to protect just after crux of this pitch.  

P2- 5.11 - Start up the face just left of the anchor aiming towards a thin seem corner system up and left. This corner system is the crux and is protected by small cams. A green and red C3 were used as well as a purple/blue offset mastercam to protect through the crux sequence. The gear is bomber here and the falls are clean. Above the seam is a bulge/mini roof that you climb up and left though a dirty corner. Climb above this corner, up a short run out to the anchor just below a short roof.

P3- 5.8 PG13 - This pitch is short and not well protected. Traverse right from the belay and get to a left facing corner with gear. Sling it long and climb up and left to get established on the large ledge system above to an anchor above a dead tree.

P4- 5.9 - Climb up to the roof and aim for the weakness on the left side of the roof. At the lip of the roof lean out and right and climb out over the lip to the exposed sequence to get established above. The exposure here is great considering the moderate terrain. Once above the lip the climbing is easy to the top. Climb up to the anchor on the large pine above. While this pitch is not difficult, protect the pitch with your second in mind. If they were to fall anywhere below or at the roof and you don't sew it up, they will swing out into space and need a jug to get up.

Location

Start in the obvious left facing corner system left of the Tourist Trap and Digital Delight

Protection

standard rack up to #3 C4 with single stem micro cams being absolutely necessary