- Edit (TBD)
Description
This description is for P1 only. Start off with a fun, burly V4 boulder problem to get established in the right facing, overhung corner. Continue up and right on pumpy 5.10 climbing to a hidden rest. Hint: wear pants. Pull a tricky 5.11 sequence then get established in the open corner/chimney feature above. This is a great rest. From here, establish onto the face and follow the weakness up some 5.9 technical climbing to the anchor. This was originally climbed as an aid line by the first ascent party and I'm pretty sure it's been free climbed before me. It was a hot and humid Summer day when I climbed it so the grade could be off.
Location
Left of Mescaline Daydream and right of I Yam What I Yam
Protection
Standard rack up to #2 with doubles in #.3 - #.75. I used small offsets and C3s towards the end but other similar sized gear should work.-note- I place a cam in the start horizontal and high step it to slot a key #5 BD nut to protect the start crux. Then I step down and start climbing with the nut already clipped. If you don't do this, you would just place a ~#.75 after you do the crux sequence and not even worry about the nut placement. But, a fall would not be fun without the pre-clipped nut.
Routes in Main Wall
- 21Creatures Void Of Form5.12aTrad