Excalibur

Excalibur is the brutal wide crack splitting the middle of the central south face, glaringly obvious from the Village of Oak Creek.Jam the crack through a variety of sizes (mostly wide) and negotiate a pair of bizarre roofs. There is a bolt at the second roof. An optional 5-7" cam protects the final 5.6 move right below the chains. Good belay ledge.To get down: Rappel 120 feet with two 60m ropes or one 70m rope.To continue on to the summit: Scramble up and right past the large tree to the southeast edge of the formation (near the top of Royalty). From the Royalty anchor, pivot back west and scramble up the ridge, encountering a short 5.6 crack somewhere along the way.

Middle of central south face.Directions: From just below the main saddle on the approach trail, cut left on a good climber's trail and follow it clockwise around the spire and naturally up to the middle of the south face. Scramble up a short 4th-class step up and left onto the starting ledge before setting a belay at the base of the crack.

Double rack to 3" + one #4 camalot + optional 5-7" cam for final 5.6 move Two 60m ropes or one 70m rope