Gillotine (left)

Pitch 1 (5.8, 60'): Ramble up a short junky chimney to a small ledge. Layback a solid varnished crack into a dirty gully and slog up to a nice belay ledge with two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.8, 60'): Same as the original Gillotine. Climb past stacked chockstones into a cool offwidth, pulling into a gorgeous crack that goes hands to fists. Place the #4 and step left to an airy ledge with two-bolt chain anchor.

Unrope and scramble 4th/5th-class to the summit if desired.

Descent: Rappel the route. I believe the second rap goes down Gillotine (right) but not 100% sure.

Left-facing wide crack system far left side of the main pillar dividing the broad south face in half. Starts in a gross-looking chimney. A few minutes' walk down and left from the Excalibur area, and just around the corner from Gillotine (right). Approach ledge gets sorta narrow at one point, but not too bad.

Single set cams to 1" + double set cams 1.25-3" + one each 4-5" cams