Gillotine (right)

Pitch 1 (5.9, 90'): Layback and jam thin cracks and creaky hanging flakes up to the big ledge. Two-bolt belay.

Pitch 2 (5.8, 60'): Climb past stacked chockstones into a cool offwidth, pulling into a gorgeous crack that goes hands to fists. Place the #4 and step left to an airy ledge with two-bolt chain anchor.

Unrope and scramble 4th/5th-class to the summit if desired.

Descent: Rappel the route.

Left-facing crack system with ominous hanging flakes found on the outside of the main pillar dividing the broad south face in half. A few minutes' walk down and left from the Excalibur area. Approach ledge gets sorta narrow at one point, but not too bad.

Single set cams to 1" + double set cams 1.25-3" + one each 4-5" cams