Lusk Point Horror

“Wide, steep, & loose” is the description I received when I was told I should go climb this thing. Definitely not for the faint of heart. A true Chattanooga adventure climb that can help in preparation for places like the Canadian Rockies or The Black Canyon. Double ropes are recommended as there’s a few nasties on route. The description I am giving is for the direct finish Todd Wells and Rick Mix established. On the FA Forest didn’t have wide gear and escaped on terrible rock through seriously friable terrain going out right before finally getting a lone pin to stick. This route can easily be done in 2 pitches by combining 2&3. Half ropes and extended gear make this not a problem. Position your belays accordingly with the potential for rock fall.   Pitch 1: (5.9, 80') Climb up corner system pulling through the steep crack and slot to land on an absolutely amazing belay ledge that overlooks the Tennessee River. Amazing position. Pitch 2: Continue up the crack to a small roof. Pull this roof on the right and keep climbing up the dihedral until you reach the "crazy flake slot." The original finish (Gardner/Henley) traverses hard right at slot and climbs unprotected crumbling rock to the arete. A lone knife blade is still visible there from the FA. This traverse, the line of the FA, has never been repeated and rightfully gets an X rating. Pitch 2: Lusk Point Horror Direct (Mark Cartwright, Todd Wells, 1998, 5.10, 90')- At the hanging flake, squirm up the slot on the right side and mantle onto the crumbling face. This unprotected mantle move leads to more secure climbing that trends slightly left. Climb over ledges to the steep face above. A knife blade in a thin crack protects the overhanging exit moves. Belay where feasible.Pitch 2: Lusk Point Horror Direct-Direct (Todd Wells, Rick Mix, 2000, 5.10, 90')- This is now the "preferred" way to climb Lusk Point Horror. Climb/chimney directly over the hanging flake and shamu onto the ledge above. Climb the crack upwards to a stance and an optional belay. (Belaying here facilitates communication with your partner). From here continue up the face on better rock to the finish described above. From here the top of the buttress, rap to the base with double 60s or go adventuring skiers right and make multiple single rope raps somewhere down the cliff.

You can see this route from the baptist church right before turning into the canyon. It is the big orange dihedral. This route is technically part of The Arena but you just follow the same cliff line as the concentration camp to get to it. Walk around 2.5 miles down the cliff line from kovite kove. You will pass the amphitheater that is The Arena in this distance and travel another ten minutes or so passing other routes along the way. A good marker is you will pass an old car balance precariously on a pile of choss 60’ off the ground on the cliff line. Above is a dirt road that leads through WMA land to Lusk Point Overlook. This road was a known spot to dump stolen whips and false insurance claims back in the day. The cliff line then seems to dwindle in size and break up and what little to no trail there is disappears. Continue skirting the steep hillside until you reach another buttress. Lusk Point Horror is the open corner system with the wide crack running through it. You can identify it by looking up the wall and finding the giant right facing  flake slot in which you will offwidth/squeeze through on pitch two.

Extra wide gear 3/4/5/6 as well as your standard rack and you can lace it up. 0/00 back up a lost arrow but the pin is good.