- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1 Climb up to the kaboom ledge by your route of choice Little Tree being the best in my opinion. Belay on the ledge at bolts.Pitch 2 Climb short pitch angling right off belay through easy terrain aiming for the large over hang with splitter crack. Make belay on huge ledge.Pitch 3 climb up corner and clean aid through roof crack and up on to face where you will belay at a couple rivets and a shiny new bolt.Pitch 4 climb up the jagged headwall per the norm mindful of sharp edges. There are few solid fixed pins. Free climbing eases this pitch as I feel it would be rather difficult to stay in your aiders This is the easiest of the aid route I have done in the area and would be a good warm up/intro for aspiring aid climbers in The Suck. There’s some loose stuff but nothing as heinous as some of the other aid routes in this wall. While this seems like a lot of pitches for a short route I would imagine the rope drag being wildly difficult with a partner no matter what you do but this route is easily done in two pitches on rope solo. 1&2 can easily be linked though.Figure outs your raps. I would not try and rap the route. I went climbers right above the cliff band and scrambled down a gully. Eventually rapping down the face. Double ropes could be nice I used a single 70m. You can also make your way to Kaboom and rap it with two 60s I believe I left webbing up there.
Location
Starts on little tree or neighboring routes
Protection
Double rack to 3 maybe a 4 if you want it, extra small units.
Routes in [Redacted]
- 4Fantastic Voyage5.9+Trad · Aid