This is the natural line just to the left of Olympus Wrecks.  Start about 20 ft to the left in a very thin tips/finger crack.  The meat of this climb is fairly short but hard right from the start.  Take a right leaning very thin tips crack up and into the crux of Olympus.  The two routes meet for 10 feet, using the highest bolt of Olympus when gear disappears.  Once you have reached the good stance take the left crack/corner to the roof and out left to the anchors of Ad-vance to Idaho.

Bug City

Poking Holes in the Firmament

Ryobi

Drew's Corner

Shock and Awe

Just Right

Sqench

Claim Jumper

Tiers of Joy

Genevive

Accidental Spice

Friction Pants

Sexcellent

Enemy Combatant

Scorpio Rising

Layback and Relax

Interesting and enjoyable moves through most of the route.  Difficult to tell exactly where the intended route goes through the roof (crux).  The difficulty of the crux eases off to about 10c/d depending on where you attack the roof.

One kinda crux move is stepping off the ground onto the climb.  Very mellow but fun climb recommended for beginners, good bolts, big holds, cool featured rock!

Friction up and over an early overlap, continue up the slab towards the cedar tree and pull across a flake edge to a steeper patina line to the anchors under an overhanging dihedral.  Above this is the 2nd pitch of Tiers of Joy.  It was discovered after the fact that Ryobi loosely followed some sections of the somewhat runout original Tiers of Joy first pitch. Brad Shilling (FA of Tiers of Joy and climbing ranger at the time) was notified immediately of the potential retrobolting and he gave his blessing to the new line.  It can now be used as an approach pitch to the excellent 2nd pitch of Tiers of Joy (5.10 full on trad).

Climb a mungy, low-angle left leaning crack to access the corner.  The actual corner climbs well with lots of face holds and fun stemming. The crux is a short section requiring a layback.  Traverses right at the top to the anchor.

This fun diverse route starts on patina edges.  The crux hits low with in a maze of small patina holds facing different directions.  Continue on with tricky pull-down edging leading to a steep jug finish.

Another of Duane Ackerman's recent additions to the single-pitch side of the Hostess Gully. This route is very well-protected and would make for an excellent first lead. With 7 bolts in 60 feet on huge holds, this route is a fine choice for kids and anyone looking for a mellow romp on steeper terrain than much of the standard Castle Rocks slab.

This route leads to the same chain anchors used by Genevive.

A fun and interesting line bolted by someone with a keen eye! 6 bolts diagonal up and right following the diagonal crack lines and ramps. Smartly bolted, this route offers great rock and a huge variety of climbing styles in 45 feet. Two crux sections- the first is from bolts 3 to 5- sneak through with in-obvious balancey moves that seem like trickery. The second is around bolt 5 and is a little more thuggish. In cool conditions i'm sure neither of these cruxes would be harder than v4, but in the summer heat 12c is probably correct. Listed as 12b/c in the Bingham guide.

The striking and enjoyable arête just left of the classic

Shock and Awe

is, in my opinion, just as classic due to the position and crux moves. But then again, I'm a huge fan of arêtes and airy, exposed climbing. If you're like me in that respect, you're sure to enjoy this fine line.

From the same big ledge belay for

Shock and Awe

, head slightly down and left to get to the start of the arête. Clip a couple of bolts from good holds to a small roof/bulge. Figure out how best to pull this bulge and then clamber up the tiny dihedral past a few more bolts to a good ledge below the obvious arête crux above.

Slap and heel hook the arête and pull through a few committing moves to the great clip hold above the crux allowing you to get established in the huge hueco just right of the arête. Take a moment to enjoy the airy and exposed position before making the final moves to the anchor.

According to Bingham's book, the 5.11c crux can be avoided by going far right of the huge hueco near the crux. I didn't try this and think that would be quite a pendulum swing if you didn't make it. The crux moves are cool and well protected so you might as well keep it real on the arête.

The 11c moves require height and reach.  Move right along the ledge/slab to the right side of the hueco.  Climb the jugs and chicken heads on the right side. Make a long reach left to clip the bolt in the hueco. Either step into the hueco and stem upward or continue to hug the jugs on the right to gain the final bolt and anchors.

Strenuously pull through the roof and follow the crack until you can easily traverse left to the top anchors of Sexcellent.

Good beginner route. Steep start crux is bolt-protected. Three moves of 5.7 or 5.8 climbing, but then it eases into enjoyable 5.5 climbing to chain anchors. Big holds from start to finish.

This is the last route on the left side as you move up the gully. Although short, it is fun and worth doing. The holds are all positive. You will want at least 2 pieces (gear to 2 inches) to supplement the bolts and prevent ground fall.

A great climb to do if there is a wait for Shock and Awe. This short climb starts with 5.8-ish friction up a slab. You can pro the slab with a small TCU. Once at the top of the slab, you can reach up and clip the first bolt. Power-move your way up over the roof and then finesse your way up a friction face to a set of chain anchors.

P1 one is a very fun outing of ever steepening patina until you pull the 5.10 crux at the final bulge.  P2: step up right to the edge of the arete and make a desperate but well protected 5.11 move to gain a line of patina to the anchors.  P3: A short but nice 5.7 pitch takes you to the top of the formation. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.

A fun steep start, then a short break, leads to a slight over hang on big holds.  Up the face to a corner, around just to the left, then up to the anchor.

The crux is certainly the thin tricky layback at the beginning of the climb but its a toprope so no excuses (from "Poking Holes" anchors).  Very fun and challanging route not to be missed while waiting for the long routes across the gully.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Buttress - South