- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1 one is a very fun outing of ever steepening patina until you pull the 5.10 crux at the final bulge. P2: step up right to the edge of the arete and make a desperate but well protected 5.11 move to gain a line of patina to the anchors. P3: A short but nice 5.7 pitch takes you to the top of the formation. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.
Location
On the center of Castle West Buttress - South right of "Olypus Wrecks" and left of "Tiers of Joy" in Dave Bingam's Castle Rocks guidebook. From a deep gully on the ground,stem out quickly onto the face and generally follow a patina line staying just left of right trending crack to an arete major feature. One 60 meter rope will get you down in 3 rappels.
Protection
About 12 quickdraws on 1st Pitch, about 9 on the 2nd, and 4 on the 3rd. Chain Anchors at the top of each pitch.
Routes in West Buttress - South
- 6Sexcellent5.11Sport