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Peak Mountain 3

T'es pas game

FA Shields/Garon
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Description

This route could have very well been climbed before as early as the 1960's by any number of very talented people who have climbed in the area in the last 50 years. I'm adding it to the database in case anyone has looked to the right from the original route and wondered what it's like "over there" or if it's been climbed at all.

One summer day my partner and I decided to just go have a look starting from the bottom. What we found was a route that compared, in difficulty, to the original route. The first pitch didn't protect very well due to the compact nature of the slab. The pitch through the big roof I'd describe as traveling through nearly the highest point of the right side on good, protectable cracks. Higher the rock quality worsened, but never to the point that we had to debate the value in continuing upward. Overall, this route traveled through a lot of 5.6-5.8 difficulty loose terrain. It is significantly looser than the standard route for comparison and therefore I can't recommend it. Choss aficionados and seekers of the obscure may enjoy it.

The first pitch was probably the technical crux and we finished by traversing left and off once we hit the large ledge separating the bottom of the face from the upper headwall.

Location

Follow the general line in the picture. Don't climb directly above your belay on this route due to loose rock. Traverse off by joining the standard route at the pillar or taking one of the lines that continues up the headwall.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Something to equalize gear at belays.