Charles Wallace the Party Rabbit

This route was conceived while climbing the face via the original direct finish route after staring for too long at the unclimbed clean sweep of quartzite on the left side of the headwall. It remains quite separate from the beautiful original line, often 50-100' left of it. I make this distinction because it would be a tragedy if someone bolted near the awesome and very committing original line up the headwall.

Charles Wallace the Party Rabbit is an entirely bolted line that continues up the left side from the pillar where the original regular route traverses straight left and then up and off. It has about 8-10 bolts per pitch and the rock is immaculate, thin edges with the occasional smear.

Its namesake is a french lop who provided the entertainment at a dinner party.

P1 (.9+/.10-): Route goes from the pillar up and softly left, then traverses back right, sharply at first, before continuing up and just slightly right to a stance at a two bolt belay. Recommended to place a long sling on the bolt where the pitch traverses sharply back right. (see topo main page). 80-100 feet

P2 (5.9): Continue straight up to the summit ridge finishing perhaps 50 feet left of the apex of the wall. Excellent thin edge climbing in an awesome position. 80 feet.

Note that the second pitch of Party Rabbit shares it's first bolt with another excellent mixed bolt/gear line (Modern Direct) that diagonals up and right from the belay finally finishing a body width from the apex of the wall.

All bolts placed are stainless, 12mm Petzl in solid quartzite slab. 2 bolt anchor top of first pitch. Sling a block and place hand/finger sized cams and maybe a stopper at the very top of the wall.