Madame Guillotine

Madame Guillotine is a fine sport pitch on the clean, blank-looking face between

Werk Supp

and

Bastille Crack

.

Start up

Marie Antoinette

, a thin crack just to the right of

Werk Supp

that ends about 20' up. Where the crack ends, embark on a long, rising, bolt-protected traverse to the right (crux). The climbing here is very typical of Eldo: you either have a decent handhold, or a decent foothold, but rarely both!

Before reaching

Bastille Crack

, continue straight up past more bolts on fun, thin face climbing (5.11). After the last bolt, trend right to meet up with

Bastille Crack

just below its second belay.

There are a few worthy variations:

If you want a short, single pitch of hard climbing, you can do the crux of MG past the first 4 bolts, and then traverse right into the crux of the

Northcutt Start

, and finish at the two bolt anchor on that route.

If you want a long, but somewhat easier pitch, you can climb

Marie Antoinette

through it's crux runout (5.9X), up to the bolt on that route, and then traverse up and right to join the upper half of Madame Guillotine (5.11). Belay on

Bastille Crack

.

The proudest link-up would be Madame Guillotine into

Hairstyles and Attitudes

!

Many draws and a light rack.

I used a yellow Alien getting up to the first bolt, and then a green and a red Camalot to make the belay on the

Bastille Crack

at the end of the pitch (fixed pin here as well).