Space

Found and inspired by Chip Ruckgaber, Space is one of those routes that is very obvious once you look at it but it has been passed up by climbers for years. It is the obvious, right-angling strata that begins about 20' up the third pitch of

Wide Country

and traverses all the way across the upper North Face until you can finish up

Saturnalia

. Look on page 51 of the Levin guide and you'll see it.

Approach via

Wide Country

or the

Bastille Crack

. Set a gear belay at an old piton at the base of

Wide Country's

third pitch. Head up

Wide Country

for about 20' (10c) to the beginning of the angling strata that shoots all the way across the upper North face. Place gear high on

Wide Country

and head out onto the face toward a bolt on

Hairstyles

. Continue the pumpy, rising traverse toward Outer Space (medium nut & 1.5" cam). Cross

Outer Space

and continue toward

Saturnalia

. Place a good 3" cam then head up

Saturnalia

. Pumpy. The crux is probably the section that crosses

Hairstyles

.

Standard Eldo rack. Lots of long slings. Consider bringing extra 0.5-2.5" cams if you place a lot of gear on the first 20' of

Wide Country's

third pitch. #4 cam could be useful, but not necessary. Clip a bolt on

Hairstyles

as you cross that route.