- Edit (TBD)
Description
Begin in the 5.7 groove (same start as Gliosis). Look for a brown catastrophe bolt about 30 ft. up on the left in the smooth groove. Continue up the groove to the lowest point of the Diamond Face where the real climbing starts. Use long runners on the first 3 bolts to prevent rope drag up high.
The headwall is the business (obviously). The climbing is technical, powerful, sustained, and awesome! Cool pockets and crimps, with several cruxes.
Straightforward climbing for the first few bolts on the headwall itself brings you to the first crux. Navigate through this and several other cruxes, passing fixed draw #1. Fixed draw #2 marks the point where you head left, crossing Resistance is Futile (1 shared bolt). Sustained climbing leads to a redpoint crux near the top - don't let your guard down until you clip the anchor!
40m pitch! Use an 80m rope or do 2 rappels with a shorter rope (several options). When pulling the rope from the top, pull hard to the right to avoid the rope-snagging flake at the top of KMOR.
Draws can be pre-hung if you climb to the top of the face via Mickey Mantle and on to the anchor of Resistance is Futile (11c).
Grade is in the 5.13/13+ range - I'm going with 13+ for now. Let me know what you think!
Location
The route climbs from the lowest point on the center of the Diamond Face, between Gliosis and Resistance is Futile, up and left, crossing Resistance is Futile at its 7th bolt. It finishes to the left at a high anchor.
Protection
14 bolts
Routes in Diamond Face
- 6The Raven5.13+Sport