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Peak Mountain 3

Uncontrollable Urge

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Description

From the belayer's anchor climb up (preferably on the left easier ground), then traverse right to a corner and the first bolt.  Head up to a ledge then up the right line of bolts.  I thought the crux (10a) was between the 7th bolt and the anchor, but getting to the 7th bolt could be of similar difficulty for shorter climbers.  At the 6th/7th bolt it is easier to climb on the right of the arete vs. coming around to the left (poor rock quality).

The bottom of this route is choss, but the middle and top have some fun moves.  In Marty's guide this route is called Uncontrollable Urge.

Location

The farthest right edge of the left/higher face of the Diamond Face area.  Scramble up 20' to the belayer's anchor.

Protection

7 bolts, mussy anchor