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Peak Mountain 3

Garden of Eden

FA Les Ellison and Carl Buckland, 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb is no paradise. A dirty and difficult start leads to easier climbing. I jumped off the start a few times before I figured out the move to get up. All placements are solid, just don't forget to oppose your first piece after the traverse. The top part is only 5.7, but is the most worthwhile part of the route. This would be a good start to the routes on the Watchtower proper, if you don't want to hike up.

Location

Climb the crack in the arête left (East) of Extreme Unction to a ledge. Traverse towards the chimney and head up another crack towards the Watchtower. There is a sling with a ring at the top. I would recommend walking off or rappelling from the chains on a neighboring route.

Protection

Standard trad rack, a blue TCU protects the traverse.